Haute-lozère porcini risotto, beef jus

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Credit: Valéry Guedes

Cooking is about unexpected encounters. During my training years I was fortunate to have many, including those with Michel Guérard, Roger Vergé, Gaston Lenôtre, and, above all, Alain Chapel. Later I met Paul Bocuse and other famous names, as well as unknowns throughout France and elsewhere. My chance meeting with Franck Cerutti, a passionate Mediterranean chef, was one of the most valuable. Franck had just returned from Florence, overflowing with the flavors of Italy, when he became my second in command at the Louis XV. The development of this risotto is largely his work.

Instructions

Step 1: Prepare and cook the porcini

Cut off the soil-coated tips of the porcini mushroom stems. Brush the porcini with a little warm water, then wipe dry with a paper towel. Trim the mushroom stems. Finely dice the trimmings and set aside for use with the rice.

Do not wash the porcini mushrooms in water as their sponge-like texture easily soaks up moisture.

Finely slice 4 mushrooms and set aside.

Melt the duck fat in a pan large enough to hold the remaining mushrooms in an upright position.

Add the thyme and 2 cloves of garlic. Stand the 8 remaining porcini mushrooms in the pan, touching each other, so they remain upright during cooking.

This recipe was originally published in "My Best Alain Ducasse" (Éditions Alain Ducasse). See all credits